Recessed bushings for hangers with spherical bearings

For hangers with spherical bearings, recessed bushings ¿Yes or No?

  •  I'm currently riding the don't trip mollys V2's with spherical in front and I really like them, but I have this itch that I can't scratch off my brain. The stock bushings come with a spherical hole for the bearing to move freely, and I've seen a few people do this “spherical hole” in their bushings all over the internet, especially in old school slalom with modified Benetts and LDPs.

     Now Valkyrie has come out with the new Mk4 slaloms and they strongly advise you to use recessed bushings in your rear truck if you want to use the spherical there. On the other hand, the ZM1s (arguably the best DH truck in the game right now) does not use recessed bushings at all nor have I seen anyone talking about using them ... 

     I use unmodified Venom bushings on my front truck and they feel great, but will they feel better if I do the spherical recess? Is there any real advantage to doing such a mod? I see a lot of people doing it and straight up saying it's better to do the recess but no one explaining exactly why.

    So.... For hangers with spherical bearings, recessed bushings ¿Yes or No? (and why 😭)



  • You want the recessed bushing for your Zm1s. Inner part of the spherical will protrude without the dish limiting your range of motion and ease of turning.

    A lot of the top racers on Zm1s are adding the dish themselves. Not sure why Venom/Rogue is shipping the stock bushings without the dish.


  • @bhr that makes sense, but how do people cut out that part of the bushing? Seems a bit janky to diy it. 


  • @Gabriel Fockler I've seen it being done with a spherical deburring tool (like the one below) and a drill or a rotary handtool (like a Dremel)


  • @F Llabata

    Can confirm that these spherical burrs work great.

    OP, You want the one with a 5/8 inch ball diameter. The part number is sd-6. They're about $15 on Amazon. 

     

    I've learned a few things about the process through trial and error, but I ended up ruining a few bushings before I got it right. Hopefully this info saves someone else a few bushings:

    Start with gentle pressure at first, and be patient with it. It's going to seem like nothings happening for a few seconds, but it'll pick up. Once you start to see urethane dust coming off, gradually increase the pressure. It'll eventually reach a tipping point where the urethane starts flying off pretty fast. At this stage, the hole grows pretty quickly.

    You want to see primarily urethane dust at this stage, not chunks. (Some small chunks are OK.) If you chunk the bushing away, you're gonna have an uneven recess and will have to make it bigger to compensate. This can happen if you apply too much pressure early on. Soft bushings are particularly susceptible to this. But if you freeze them for a couple of hours first then it's much easier to get a clean result. 

    Keep firm, steady pressure on it, periodically checking the size of the hole. You don't have to drill super far into the bushing. Once the hole is half an inch in diameter the bearing will fit perfectly. I recommend measuring it - half an inch really is the perfect diameter.


  • Here's one I did yesterday.


  • @John Hower thanks man, I had given up all hope of anyone ever replying to this post again. I guess if you do this mod you will know the difference between doing the recess and not doing it, what advantages would you say the spherical cutout has? is it very noticeable? 🧐

    I am going to buy the deburring tool right now!! 😂😂


  • @F Llabata I'm glad I could help! On my Robot Oblivions the cutout makes a big difference. They'd be almost unrideable without it. That's because the space for the spherical is just a hole in the hanger, so the ball protrudes quite a bit. It's almost impossible to get rid of the dead zone.

    Other trucks have the spherical sitting inside of some sort of seat, like the Don't Trips. For those, I think that the cutout isn't strictly necessary, at least boardside, because the ball doesn't protrude as much. But I've never tried riding my DTs without the cutout, so I can't speak to the difference there. 


  • @John Hower Thank you! On that, how do the robot oblivion compare to the DTs? 🧐🧐


  • @F Llabata I have the Dane Hannah pros; the main difference is that they have spherical pivots VS the Robot Oblivions urethane pivot cups. This makes them ride rougher, but It's a pretty minimal difference. 

    I've set them up pretty differently, so it's hard to compare them. I'm trying to set up the Danes with more center for standup slides, so I'm using tall, higher rebound bushings and cupped washers. I just use the robots for glove down skating, so they have standard height venom hpf bushings and flat washers, for a more agile, divey ride.

    One day I'll try swapping the roles and then I'd be able to provide more insight. But I'm pretty happy with both setups so I'm not planning to change anything soon.


  • @John Hower thanks for the feedback man! Drop a review on the Robots some day on the forum, I think they are pretty good trucks and people is sleeping on them!


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