Rail Match


  • What is rail match?

    Rail match is when the edges of your wheels are in line with the edge of the board where you put your feet (standing platform) 

    Generally, if the rails of the board (edges) are straight, if you can rest a board sideways on its wheels and rail, the board can be considered rail matched. 

    Generally, riders tend to chase after the perfect rail match as it tends to feel agile while not feeling tippy. 

    How do I get rail match? 

    There are a few factors that affect rail match.

    1. Hanger width

    If you have wider hangers, the distance edge to edge on the wheels will be larger. 

    If you have smaller hangers, the distance edge to edge on the wheels will be smaller.

    2. Deck width 

    If you have a wider deck, the distance edge to edge on the wheels will need to be higher to obtain rail match.

    If you have a narrower deck, the distance edge to edge on the wheels will need to be narrower.

    3. Wheel offset and dimensions

    A wider wheel will make the distance edge to edge on the wheels higher. A narrower wheel will make this distance smaller. 

    A wheel with a higher offset will make the distance edge to edge on the wheels higher compared to a lower offset. 

    When you aren't rail matched

    Wheels wider than the deck

    Commonly called: Wheel overhang, poke

    Generally, this is avoided. It is present on older longboard trucks, as the science behind the geometry was not as advanced. 

    It is commonly believed to feel more stable, but it is actually less responsive and agile. Turning will require more effort. 

    Wheels narrower than the deck 

    Commonly called: Deck overhang, tuck

    This is also generally avoided, but some people do have deck overhang as a personal reference. 

    This will make the board feel a lot more responsive, however it is sacrificing some ability to return to center. Because of this, the board will feel tippy. Turning will be much easier. 



  • Adding that someone made a calculator for rail match and width:

    bit.ly/railmatch

    In my experience, a little poke isn't bad. Maybe half an inch on each side max before it starts feeling gross. I'd rather have my trucks be a little too wide than too narrow. 


  • Good info guys, thanks. Here is a live link to get there faster. https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1_3Nah8kJHN_kO7FxXT1xcIZyc7lwjeZK4vTwJ0KHRnQ/edit#gid=797375362

     

    Such a great resource for getting the right truck width. I get confused when I don't know what truck width is best with all (not that many lol) the variables at hand.


  • @David Serate interesting, I didn't know about this specifically in terms of wheel overhang or deck over hang

    I just knew that for LDP 150° trucks or less are commonly used (and dependent on setup), and then dancers use the widest at 180° for maximum carve. Makes me wonder if I should narrow my trucks for dancing/freestyle. Probably be necessary if I ever want to get into rail tricks for freestyle


  • @Justin Chang So back in 2018 I ran 150mm Paris on an Alternative Flamingo and ngl, it felt like shit ahaha. Overly tippy. Didn't like it at all.


  • Super useful writeup, most definitely. I think a note to add is that different decks require different things - ideal trucks and rail match can come down to the individual deck as well as the wheels you want to use.

    For example, I've got an old Bustin Mastro (about 9" wide) that I've been working on turning into a viable LDP setup. Of course, LDP is typically narrow trucks and big wheels, like @Justin Chang mentioned. The problem is that with 150mm trucks I can't get any wheels on there - the noses are wide around the drop-through, more so than any other similar deck. I don't even think 165mm trucks are going to work, so I'll be going way outside the ideal rail match by going with 180mm trucks to make it work for the discipline I want to use it for. It'll be a risk for wheel-kick, but I'm hoping it'll be worth it as a good loaner board!


  • @Zach Maxon Interesting about the Maestro setup! Used to love bustin (was my first board). Is it the current T-core design or the old 2010s design? I also relentlessly emailed them to bring back the daensue lol. Nowadays, they just push electric boards and hybrid boards, and I'm sad now that William Royce left the company. 

    About the setup, good luck, although I had a friend with the maestro, you might have better luck with a sportster (or u could chop it into a bracket lol)


  • @Justin Chang it's the old 2010's version, with that weird directional camber on a symmetrical shape haha. The Sportster or the Nomad would definitely be the more appropriate LDP platform, but I got this board for the nostalgia specifically. I used to skate with Will back in the day when he was in Florida! Mostly just in the garages in Tampa, none of the really fast stuff in Clermont.

    Once I get the Maestro setup (after Ladiga, probably) I'll post some pictures! It'll be really jank, but that's the fun in it, I think.


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