Some help with introduction to LDP


  • Yo, so I'm looking for like kind of the "best guide" out there or something that resembles an intro to LDP, that explains the mechanics of pumping and long distance skating. Specifically all the gear talk, like torsion tails, brackets degree splits all that fancy stuff. I'm newish to LDP and have friends who understand it wayy better than me, but I was wondering if there was any resources besides pavedwave and blue ridge that y'all might know of. I may potentially try to contribute to a separate intro to ldp project thingie. Thanks in advance! (Also I'd love to see more LDP discussion here)



  • Admittedly, I'm not much of a pumper myself. The board I used for the IDSA (shoutout to IDSA, dem's awesome), was a dancer lol, and unfortunately using another dancer for the May Warmup Challenge. I'm also more of a pusher (push and tuck form raaaaa). But I know u in general, soft bushing and loose truck in da front, tight truck, and hard bushing in da back, narrow truck, uhh, and that's pretty much it. 

    Also can someone explain to me whether harder or softer wheels are better for LDP? I have the rolling resistances graphic from Blue Ridge project, but somewhat confused still. 


  • I'm not good at pumping but it's just carving with some extra flare. It's more about having the skill than having the setup imo; anything will pump, the fancy setups just make it easier.

    As for wheels, it mostly depends on the surface you're skating and personal preference. Rougher pavement you obviously want to go softer, but if you have really nice pavement you basically want to go as hard as you can while still being able to grip


  • I don't think there's necessarily an intro guide that's well compiled - I think you're on the mark with Paved Wave and Blue Ridge Project being the best sources of info, but that info can be a bit scattered.

    When it comes to pumping, it really depends on the type of setup that you're using. There are TKP and RKP setups, of course, and with each front truck you're going to see different "ideal" angles for pumping, and different "gears" if you will.

    When it comes to RKP, you can run anywhere from 55 to 70ish degrees in the front, from what I've seen. For rear trucks, I've seen people run as high as 35 degrees, all the way to negative angles, which I think is kind of nuts. I am running a Pantheon Supersonic with Paris 150s. Front truck is at 65 degrees, the rear is at 26. I'm not much of a pumper, but I'm able to maintain pumping speed on this setup with pretty minimal effort. This is by no means a high speed pumping setup, but it makes long stretches where I don't feel like pushing a lot  more enjoyable. I have yet to fool around with it, but theoretically, by moving the rear truck to the flipped position, I would be able to generate more speed. This is (I think) because the lower the degree in the back, the more rebound you'll get.

    I'm not too familiar with TKP setups, I just like messing around with them, and never do anything in too high a gear. I have a Pantheon Wiggler set up as a classic topmount pumper. I've got a Bennett up front with a 10 degree wedge, and a Tracker RTX with a 12 degree dewedge in the back. This setup is a LOT of fun. I don't do big miles on it, and I don't go fast, but I like it a lot for anything under 10 miles. I'm currently experimenting with a different truck setup, which I'll be doing a little writeup on.

    Wheels are a big topic of debate, like they are in pretty much every other skating discipline, and I think it all comes down to personal preference. When it comes to pumping, specifically, I think you really have to try a ton to know what you like. I'm working on that myself, but it's slow going, since wheels can be wildly expensive. Just picked up some Karmas and while I'm stoked about it, my wallet is hurting.

    If you need any help with a comprehensive guide, let me know! I'm down to help contribute as much as I can. LDP often feels like this super niche club, but I'd love to help change that, and plan to start contributing more to make it a hell of a lot more accessible!


  • @Zach Maxon damn this was super and incredibly insightful and helpful. Thanks! Something tells me you're gonna be a powerhouse in the LDP scene soon, if u aren't alr (I know you started ldp rather recently) keep on working hard and pushing!

    It isn't much, but have a shitpost meme for your time and troubles with you answer. Really appreciate the in-depth response!


  • Hahaha hell yeah, I appreciate it! All about the Phantom Menace! I'm working my way up to longer skates at higher paces and I'm definitely feeling it. The more I dial in, the better I feel! I'm doing Ladiga in a few weeks, and after that I'm hoping to really lock in and get things going.


  • Just getting back into pumping after a long break. Mostly just been pumping in town while getting from A to B, but planning on doing longer distances this summer. Here's some info based on my own experience, hope you'll find some of it useful. 'Scuse if some of it is obvious, just happy to see people interested in pumping, and OP asked for intro info.

    * I've only ever pumped on topmount setups. I suspect topmounts are easier to learn on, since you can have your front foot on top of the truck, and don't have to worry about hitting the wheels with your front foot. Topmount setups can have very squirrely front trucks, so it's good to go easy first, fe. see how it feels like to steer with one foot when pushing or foot braking.
    * Short wheelbases are easier to pick up initial speed on, and perhaps easier to learn on, too. You can basically start from a standstill. Short wbs are also handy in town, if you have to stop relatively often.
    Longer wheelbases can achieve higher speeds, but may require a higher start speed to get going with pumping.
    Just about any topmount deck can used, so if you want to experiment on a budget, you can take a longer deck and drill extra holes for different wheelbases to try.
    * As Zach wrote, a Bennett truck up front and a Tracker RTX in the back is a great setup. I use about the same angles as he, and for height you can use a 5 degree wedge and a 6 degree wedge on top of each other. There are tall and low wedges, see which works for you. The height of the wedges helps avoid wheel bite. You need quite long screws to attach the trucks, and the screws may bend a little, but I haven't noticed any of them breaking yet.
    With Tracker trucks, I found the neck of the pivot wearing out the pivot cup, so filed the sides of the neck slightly to narrow it a little.
    * Loose trucks are a no-no. Loose trucks are not responsive, they're just, well, loose. Experiment with different bushings that are suitable for your weight and wheelbase. 
    I've enjoyed using ABEC11 Reflex and Venom SHR, or even white Khiros on very short wheelbases since I'm quite skinny. If you like, you can use barrel-shaped ones on both sides, and replace the roadside cupped washer with a large flat one. Experiment with tightness of the kingpin, that and the bushings make a huge difference.
    * Large grippy wheels with square lips have worked best for me, Seismic Speed Vents on several setups, and Avila Race Formula on a very short wheelbase setup. But you can try a lot of wheels, I have a short cruiser deck set up for slow-speed in-town pumping that has round-lipped old Cults, haven't had them slip or slide unintentionally.
    I've bought Speed Vents also second-hand, and have been happy with them.
    * A concave deck can help with foot grip, but some say it tires or hurts their feet on long distances. On flat decks, once you find an ideal spot for your front foot, you can make a stopper by simply attaching a bushing on top to keep your foot in place.

    * If you want to, you can face the hangers of your trucks. This means making sure the hanger face is perpendicular to the axle. With cast trucks, the hanger face surface may be uneven or at a bad angle. I haven't noticed huge differences in performance, but folks say it helps with bearing wear and allows the wheels sit more precisely. I've done it just in case, and because I like to tinker with customization.
    The metal is usually soft enough that you can do the task manually. Shave the metal very little, just enough so the face is flat. Here are a couple of good pics (not mine):
    https://www.peterverdone.com/wiki/index.php?title=Facing_Hangers
    That person is using a counterbore, but a similar tool can be found by the names tenon / dowel / plug cutter, and can come without a pilot bit. Shouldn't cost much. Just make sure the center fits your axle exactly.

    My technique is largely front-truck centric, it pulls and the tail mainly follows. It's good in town, since it does not require that much space sideways, but I want to learn to utilize the back foot better, especially with longer distances and less crowded routes.


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